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YONEZAWA Ori special feature -feature YONEZAWA-

Iwasa x Yonezawa Weaving Cultural heritage woven together over 200 years of history
YONEZAWA EPISODE
- 220 YEARS OF TRADITION. THE NEW BEGINNING IN IWASA. -

When I first saw Yonezawa weaving, my first impression was, "What a beautiful fabric!" I remember the excitement I felt when I didn't know the details about the history and process of Yonezawa weaving.

In other words, it is a jacquard weave using triacetate thread. Yonezawa weaving has a value that cannot be expressed in more words than this.
The texture of the fabric is incredibly beautiful, no matter what pattern it is, and it's fun to think about the design while looking at the pattern. Although it is work, it is also a fun time for us.

Yonezawa weaving is an indispensable material for Iwasa products.
We are very proud of Iwasa's products that use Yonezawa weaving.

We hope you will add this to your collection of treasured possessions.

President and CEO Koji Iwasa

History and Tradition of Yonezawa Weaving

The birthplace, Yonezawa.

Yonezawa weaving is a general term for textiles produced in the Yonezawa region of Yamagata Prefecture.
It began during the Edo period as a result of industrial encouragement by feudal lord Uesugi Yozan.
These include tsumugi, chirimen, kihachijo, hakamaji, thread weaving, and patterned weaving.
It began in the mid-Edo period when Uesugi Harunori (Yozan), the lord of the Yonezawa domain, invited weavers from Echigo and taught them the weaving trade.
It is a plain weave ikat pattern using hand-spun or dupioni silk threads, and is considered to be of a higher rank than meisen.
It was used by men and women for kimono fabric and haori cloth. After the Meiji period, it was mainly produced in the Nagai region, and since Nagai was the distribution center, it was called Nagai Tsumugi and developed a unique quality.

"Yonezawa Ori" is a general term for textiles produced in the Yonezawa region of Yamagata Prefecture, Japan. It started during the Edo period through the industrial encouragement of the feudal lord Uesugi Takayama. Varieties include Tsumugi (pongee silk), Chirimen (crepe) , Yellow Hachijo, Hakamaji (hakama fabric), Itoori (thread-woven), and Monori (pattern-woven). In the mid-Edo period, Yonezawa's feudal lord Uesugi Harunori (Takayama) weavers from Echigo and initiated the textile industry. Yonezawa Ori is woven using hand-spun thread drawn from true cotton or silk thread, and it features horizontal stripes in a plain weave structure. It is considered superior to Meisen and was favored for clothing and robes. After the Meiji era, production centered around the Nagai region, leading to the term "Nagai Tsumugi," characterized by its unique quality.
Uesugi Yozan (Uesugi Harunori) <1751-1822>
STORY OF YONEZAWA IWASA TEAMS
  • Yonezawa Weaving Factory 01
  • Yonezawa Weaving Factory 02
  • Yonezawa Weaving Factory 03
  • Yonezawa Weaving Factory 04
  • Yonezawa Weaving Factory 05

Product The Yonezawa weave created by Iwasa is made using a method that is particular about making the most of the materials.

  • The material specified is "Soaron," a triacetate with excellent heat resistance and durability.

    • Soft gloss
    • Moisture wicking and quick drying
    • Lightweight and refreshing

    We use the triacetate material "Soalon", which is produced only by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd. in Japan. The triacetate material "Soalon" is a high-quality material that is gentle on the skin and made primarily from high-purity pulp. We use a new generation of environmentally friendly material that combines the natural feel of natural fibers with the functionality of synthetic fibers, allowing you to "wear nature".

    Using a loom that is over 100 years old.

    Here, 100-year-old vintage looms are used. Fabrics woven gently and slowly on old-fashioned looms bring out the natural texture of natural materials such as cotton, silk, and linen, creating a warm, nostalgic feel. They are also strong, and their appeal is that they become more beautiful with each use. Their commitment to detail is unending, and for some products, they even do the "twisting" and dyeing in-house. After washing, the clothes are left to dry naturally. In addition, all the products are finished without seams, which makes them comfortable against the skin.

    "soalon," a material made from triacetate, is exclusively produced by Mitsubishi Rayon in Japan. Triacetate material "soalon" is a high-quality material with a gentle feel on the skin, primarily using high-purity pulp as its main ingredient. It combines the natural texture of fibers with the functionality of synthetic fibers, making it an environmentally friendly material for the new generation that embraces "wearing nature."

    Here, traditional looms from 100 years ago are used. Fabrics woven gently and slowly on these traditional looms bring out the inherent texture of natural materials such as cotton, silk, and hemp, creating a nostalgic and warm quality. The appeal lies in the fact that the textiles become stronger and gain character with each use. The attention to detail is unwavering, with some products even undergoing processes like "twisting yarn" and dyeing in-house. Additionally, the drying process after washing is kept natural. All of this results in a feature where the fabrics are finished without seams, contributing to a comfortable feel against the skin.
  • Yonezawa Water Repellent
  • Iwasa's original processing that adds water and oil repellency.

    These processes are applied when the fabric is dyed, so a consistent effect is obtained. The effect lasts almost permanently. Not only the main body, but all parts such as the gusset and handles are made from the processed material. It is a high-quality material that is popular for formal use due to its unique luster and deep black color. This is the ideal processing for formal bags that will last a long time.

    During the dyeing process of the fabric, these treatments are applied, resulting in a uniform and stable effect. The effect is semi-permanent and long-lasting. Not only the main body but also all parts, including gussets and handles, are made from processed materials. It is a popular high-end material for formal use, known for its unique glossiness and deep black color. This processing is ideal for formal bags intended for long-term use.

VOICE IWASA's manufacturing would not be possible without collaboration with artisans. We asked a craftsman about it.

  • Q1. What is the difference between Yonezawa weaving and other production areas?

    What are the differences between Yonezawa weave and other production areas?
  • Yonezawa weaving has a long history, beginning with linen and silk fabrics, and now includes synthetic and composite fabrics with synthetic fibers, making it a production area capable of producing a wide range of items, including Japanese clothing, men's and women's clothing, and formal wear.
    It is a production area with technical capabilities comparable to Como, Italy, which is said to be the best in the world in the field of weaving. Yonezawa weave has a long history, starting with hemp and silk textiles, and now includes complex fabrics made from synthetic and blended fibers. It has become a production area that can produce a wide range of items such as traditional Japanese clothing, men's and women's clothing , and formal wear. In the field of weaving, it is a region with a level of technical expertise that rivals Italy's Como, which is said to be the best in the world in terms of weaving technology.

  • Q2. What are the difficulties in working with triacetate yarn and why do you use triacetate?

    Please explain the challenges in handling triacetate yarn and the reasons for using triacetate.
  • There are several reasons to use it:
    1. To make it a one-of-a-kind material.
    ②Since it is made primarily from natural pulp, it is eco-friendly and sustainable.
    ③Excellent gloss and color development can be achieved.
    We use triacetate in our material development based on these three elements.
    However, triacetate is a very delicate fiber, so it requires time-consuming and careful work and skilled techniques to manage the lot from warping to weaving, to prevent wrinkles during dyeing, and to maintain the surface quality. Therefore, specialists are needed for each process, and a division of labor is used to ensure efficiency and high quality at each process. There are several reasons for its use:
    1:To create unique materials.
    2:It utilizes natural pulp as the primary material, enabling compatibility with ECO and sustainability efforts.
    3:It allows for excellent gloss and color expression. Based on these three factors, triacetate is used for material development. However, due to its delicate nature, careful work and skilled techniques are essential for tasks ranging from warp preparation to weaving to maintain lot management, prevent wrinkles during dyeing processes, and uphold surface quality. Thus, specialists are necessary for each stage of the process to ensure efficiency and high quality.

  • Q3. We hear about the impact of COVID-19 in many places, but how has it affected Yonezawa weaving?

    I hear about the impact of COVID-19 in various places, but how was the market movement of Yonezawa-ori (Yonezawa silk weaving)?
  • The impact of the COVID-19 outbreak, coupled with factors such as restrictions on outings, led to a significant decline in consumption. This directly affected production, causing it to plummet to 30% of its peak level. While a gradual recovery began around the autumn of 2022 as the situation started to improve, the production levels have stabilized at around 80% of the peak levels up to the present. Despite various challenges in production and other aspects, efforts are being made to leverage the skills in Yonezawa silk weaving for new product development and expanding into new sales channels, without giving up.

  • End storyAfter the interview

    After the interview.
  • The factors that led to Yonezawa's development as a textile production area include heaven, earth, and people.
    Heaven ...The Yonezawa region experiences heavy snowfall and is a cold region, so we had to choose to work indoors.
    Land ...Hemp has been used as a raw material in Yonezawa since ancient times, and later the area flourished as a producer of silkworms, so the area is skilled in handling natural materials and has an abundance of them.
    People ...Since the time of the great ruler Takayama, he has always had the tenacity and perseverance to proactively develop new products.
    The craftsmanship of Yonezawa has been shaped by the long-standing history mentioned above. The factors that contributed to Yonezawa's development as a textile-producing region include natural conditions, geographical attributes, and the characteristics of its people.
    [natural conditions]...Due to the heavy snowfall and cold climate, the Yonezawa region had to choose indoor work.
    [geographical characteristics]...Yonezawa has had hemp as a raw material since ancient times, and later, it excelled in dealing with natural materials such as silkworms, contributing to its prosperity.

    [People's characteristics]...Since the reign of the excellent ruler Lord Takayama, there has been a persistent and tenacious spirit in actively engaging in new product development. The artisan spirit of Yonezawa is likely shaped by the ancient history mentioned above.The goodness of black, which is important for black formal wear, can be dyed in a deep formal black by using triacetate as a material. It is no wonder that Yonezawa weaving is used for high-quality black formal wear. The division of labor improves quality and planning, and allows everything to be completed in-house, making it possible to produce small lots, a strength that other production areas do not have. This is why Iwasa is able to use a large number of Yonezawa-ori jacquards and a wide variety of patterns. This fabric has always been and will continue to be an indispensable part of Iwasa, which is committed to making its products in Japan. We look forward to exciting new developments in the future. The excellence of black in black formal wear lies in the use of triacetate material, allowing it to be dyed into a deep and formal black color. It's understandable that Yonezawa weave is used in high-quality black formal wear. By employing a division of labor system, the quality and planning abilities are enhanced, enabling the realization of small batches thanks to the ability to supplement everything locally. This unique strength sets it apart from other regions. That's why "Iwasa" also employs Yonezawa weave jacquards, enabling a wide variety of patterns to be used. Existing and future development alike, this textile remains indispensable for "Iwasa," a brand committed to Japanese-made products. I look forward to exciting new developments ahead.

Recommended formal bags

Ranking #1

Yonezawa woven formal bag with built-in magnet

Made entirely from high quality Yonezawa weave.
It also has inner magnet functionality.

The satin switching on the flap is not only a design accent, but is also made of strong polyester satin as it is the part that comes into contact with your hands when opening and closing.
The high-quality satin with a subdued sheen is designed to be a pleasant accent in the Yonezawa weave.

Click here for the product page
size
Height 18cm x Width (top) 23.5cm, (bottom) 26cm x Depth 9cm
Weight
Approx. 350g
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country of origin
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Ranking 2nd [YUMI KATSURA] Double Ribbon Jacquard Black Bag [YUMI KATSURA] Double Ribbon Jacquard Black Bag

[YUMI KATSURA] Double Ribbon Jacquard Black Bag

The rose pattern that is synonymous with the Katsura Yumi brand is woven in Yonezawa weave for black formal wear.

The fabric woven with the technique of "Fukureori" has a pattern that stands out more than normal fabrics, making it clearly different from other fabrics. "Feminine and elegant no matter how old you are..." This ribbon with a neat shape expresses Yumi Katsura's wish to be feminine in any situation.

Click here for the product page
size
Height 15 (18 including ribbon) x Width (top) 23.5, (bottom) 26 x Depth 9cm
Weight
Approx. 385g
Surface treatment
Water and oil repellent
country of origin
Japan
price
29,700 yen including tax
Ranking 3rd Yonezawa woven soft formal bag (with hidden magnet) M Yonezawa woven soft formal bag (with hidden magnet) M

Yonezawa woven soft formal bag (with hidden magnet) M

Although it looks compact, it is large enough to easily fit all your essentials, such as a long wallet, a cloth, a prayer bead case, a pouch, and a cell phone.

The textured fabric used on the front is an original Yonezawa weave woven with threads for formal wear. It is water and oil repellent, so you can use it safely even in the rain. If it gets wet in the rain or gets dirty from the fantation, gently wipe it off with a dry cloth.

Click here for the product page
size
Height 17cm x Width 31cm x Depth 10cm
Weight
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Surface treatment
Water and oil repellent
country of origin
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price
17,600 yen including tax

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